June 24, 2025

How to Attach Plasterboard to a Media Wall: A Step-by-Step Guide

Want your Media Wall Fire to look sleek, not slapdash? Attaching plasterboard is all about sturdy studs, sharp cuts, and screws in the right spots.
The short answer? Measure carefully, use drywall screws, and attach plasterboard directly to a solid frame—then finish with taping, sanding, and priming for a smooth surface.
Keep reading for expert techniques, easy-to-follow steps, and tips to avoid the dreaded screw pop!

Understanding Plasterboard for Media Walls

Why Use Plasterboard?

Plasterboard is the unsung hero of most modern media wall builds. It's affordable, readily available, and gives you that sleek, seamless finish we all love in showhome living rooms.

Picture this: you've just installed your dream media wall, TV mounted perfectly, lighting just right—but the wall surface is bumpy and uneven. That’s exactly what plasterboard helps you avoid.

Plus, with the right type, it also keeps your home safer.

Smooth Finish for Painting

If you're aiming for that polished, Instagram-ready look, plasterboard is your best mate. It gives you a lovely flat surface that’s ready to paint, wallpaper, or skim to perfection.

Fire Resistance (Dependent on Type)

Got a Media Wall Fire in the mix? Fire-rated plasterboard is a smart move. It adds a layer of safety, giving you precious extra minutes in the event of a fire.

Ease of Application

For DIYers, plasterboard is relatively straightforward. Cut, screw, tape, skim—done! With the right tools and prep, it's much easier than many imagine.

Types of Plasterboard Suitable for Media Walls

Standard Plasterboard

Perfect for most lounges and living rooms. It’s light, easy to cut, and ideal when there’s no need for added moisture or fire protection.

Fire-Rated Plasterboard (Around Fireplaces)

This one’s essential if your media wall includes an electric or bioethanol fire. Fire-rated boards can resist flames for 30 to 60 minutes, helping you meet UK safety regs.

Moisture-Resistant Plasterboard (Less Common for Media Walls)

You’ll mainly find this in bathrooms or kitchens. Unless your media wall is in a very humid room, this type usually isn’t necessary.

Preparing Your Media Wall Frame for Plasterboard

Ensuring the Frame is Square and Level

A wonky frame is the fastest way to ruin your plasterboard finish. Use a spirit level, laser level, and your eyes to double-check everything.

Take your time here—this is the skeleton of your wall. If it’s off, everything else will be too.

Planning for Electrical Outlets and Cable Routes

Before the boards go up, mark exactly where your sockets, HDMI cables, and speaker wires will go. You don’t want to realise halfway through that you've plastered over your AV ports!

Use trunking, conduits, or cable plates to make future upgrades easier.

Adding Noggins/Blocking for TV Mounts and Heavy Shelves

If you’re mounting a 65” TV or adding floating shelves, you’ll need timber noggins between the studs. These give your fittings something solid to grip onto.

Without them, the plasterboard will crack—and that’s not a fun fix.

Step-by-Step: Attaching Plasterboard

Measuring and Cutting Plasterboard

Accurate Measurements

Grab your tape measure and a pencil. Measure the space between studs and jot it down clearly. A metal straight edge is ideal for marking clean, straight lines.

Scoring and Snapping Technique

Lay the board flat, score the front face using a utility knife, then snap it along the score. Slice through the back paper layer, and you’ve got yourself a neat cut—no dust, no drama.

Cutting Openings for Sockets/Switches

Use a pad saw or hole saw for precise holes. If in doubt, make a cardboard template of your socket to avoid any nasty surprises when wiring up later.

Securing Plasterboard to the Frame

Choosing the Right Screws (Drywall Screws)

Stick to drywall screws. Use coarse-threaded screws for timber and fine-threaded, self-tapping ones for metal.

A screw gun makes this part quicker and stops you overdriving.

Spacing and Depth of Screws

Screws should sit just below the surface without breaking the paper. Place them roughly every 200mm along edges and 300mm in the centre of the sheet.

Attaching to Timber vs. Metal Studs

Timber’s forgiving—metal less so. For metal, always use sharp-pointed screws or self-drillers, and keep your drill steady to avoid slipping.

Dealing with Corners and Edges

Butt Joints vs. Tapered Edges

Tapered edges are your friend. They make jointing a breeze and keep the wall flush. Butt joints (flat edge to flat edge) take more filler and finesse.

External Corner Beads (Metal or Plastic)

Fix corner beads with screws or adhesive before skimming. These help you get those satisfyingly sharp, durable corners that look professional.

Finishing the Plasterboard Surface

Taping and Jointing (Skimming)

Applying Jointing Compound

Use a 10-inch taping knife to apply a thin, even layer of compound over the seams and screw holes. Don’t rush—consistency matters here.

Embedding Jointing Tape

Push the jointing tape into the wet compound and smooth it out. Paper tape works well, but fibreglass mesh is easier for beginners.

Multiple Coats for a Smooth Finish

You’ll need at least three coats. Let each one dry fully before applying the next. Feather the edges wider each time to blend perfectly into the surface.

Sanding for a Perfect Surface

Once dry, give everything a light sand using 180–220 grit paper. Use a work light at an angle to spot imperfections. Wear a mask—this part gets dusty.

Priming Before Painting

Apply a mist coat or plasterboard primer before decorating. It helps your paint stick evenly and stops patches appearing.

Important Tips for a Professional Finish

Avoiding Screw Pops

Don’t overtighten screws or fix too close to board edges. Always secure into the middle of studs or noggins for a tight, lasting grip.

Dealing with Unevenness

Feather joint compound wider in uneven spots and sand carefully. A flat edge or straight plank can help you spot high or low areas.

Achieving Seamless Joints

Use tapered edges where you can. Take your time with each layer, and don’t skimp on sanding. Good prep = great results.

Alternatives to Plasterboard for Media Wall Facing

Looking for something a bit different? Here are some stylish alternatives to plasterboard:

MDF or Plywood Panels – Great for strength and mounting, though heavier and harder to skim.
Timber Slat Panels – Adds texture and visual interest. Perfect for Scandi or Japandi vibes.
Venetian Plaster or Microcement – Luxe finishes for modern builds, but best left to the pros.

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